Golden opportunity awaits at Cottonwood Lakes

Around these parts, anglers eagerly await July 1 like a kid eagerly counting down the days to Dec. 25.
Once July rolls around, every day (at least from July 1 to Oct. 31) feels like Christmas in the Golden Trout Wilderness where heavy concentrations of radiant golden trout race about the depths of the crystal-clear backcountry waters of the Eastern Sierra Nevada.
Reaching the home of the majestic fish is no easy task as nearly all the alpine lakes that hold them require anglers to backpack or horseback in. On average, the quest for gold is going to take unknowing anglers on a trek of more than five or six miles through the oxygen-thin Sierra air. That's why the Cottonwood Lakes trailhead is such a special destination, offering some of the most convenient access to golden trout.
The trailhead is perched higher than 10,000 feet and about 25 miles above downtown Lone Pine - located midway between Reno and Los Angeles along Highway 395. The first Cottonwood Lake can be reached via a 4 1/2-mile hike that can take anywhere between two and four hours depending on your hiking ability. Once you reach the first lake of the basin you're 11,008 feet above sea level, surrounded by pools and creeks brimming with fish that look like they've been sculptured from gold.
For those who haven't been lucky enough to catch the state fish, golden trout have an amazing color scheme that begins with an olive back and blends into a blazing crimson lateral stripe and golden belly that rivals the hue of any other freshwater fish out there.
On top of their beauty, these little guys can fight with the best of 'em. When you finally land one, you'll be surprised at their size. While many may feel like lunkers, don't be surprised when most of them run from 7 to 12 inches. The state record is well over 9 pounds, but don't expect to set any records here. Anything over 14 inches earns bragging rights in these frigid, nutrient-lacking waters. Keep in mind, the water in the basin was probably snow just a few weeks earlier.
So what do these fish eat?
Go lakeside on a calm evening or early morning and you'll see exactly what they're after - mosquitoes, mosquitoes, mosquitoes.
The lakes, creeks and moist section of the trail are plagued by the ravenous insects, so bring plenty of imitations, not to mention repellent and a mosquito mask.
Check with the tackle shops and ranger station in Lone Pine (a wilderness permit from the station is required for camping) to determine what the fish are biting prior to your trip, but anything that resembles a mosquito will probably do.
Start off with a small fly, something in the 14- and 16-size range works fine. Try an Elk Hair Caddis, a light Cahill or a Parachute Adams to determine their mood.
If they're not hitting dry flies, try a dry-and-nymph setup. A standard Pheasant-Tail Nymph dangling below a Parachute Adams is a good call in the afternoon when fish feed along the lake bottom and edges. On bright, cloudless days, try switching to streamers and traditional makes like the Clouser Minnow, Muddler or Wooly Bugger.
Golden trout aren't easy to catch, so if your luck still doesn't change, you'll need to take another approach. Keep in mind, lake-dwelling goldens naturally prefer to sip up flies off the surface - just look at the boils all over the lake in late evening and early morning hours. If they're not hitting a dry fly, it's a dead giveaway something else is wrong.
A delicate presentation is the key. Try a 5X tippet on a 12-foot leader and stick to subtlety, avoiding drag at all costs. Never jerk the fly and stick to long, slow retrieves. Unless you're running out of options, it's best to stay away from flashy or bulky patterns that can spook away any whoppers.
Jeff Brackney at Lone Pine Sporting Goods said goldies still respond well to typical High Sierra patterns such as the Adams, Sierra Bright Dot and Black Ant this time of year.
For the spinning reel anglers, Brackney has just one suggestion.
"Go with something yellow," he said. "A yellow and black (spotted) Panther Martin works great right now."
Spinners also can use a bubble-and-fly combination with the above patterns. Just be sure to crimp down the barbs on your hooks and stick to flies or artificials at the Cottonwood Lakes. Also note that lakes 1,2, 3 and 4 are catch and release only. There are five-fish limits at Cottonwood Lakes 5 and 6, which require a six-mile hike and sit at an elevation of 11,186 feet. South Fork, Cirque, Long, High and Muir lakes can also be reached from the trailhead.
For the record, Brackney, a local who knows the Golden Trout Wilderness as well as anyone, prefers to get away from it all and fish Cottonwood Lakes 5 and 6.
"I always make sure I get up to Cottonwood No. 5," Brackney said. "I have to be able to keep at least one to eat."

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A closer look at Cottonwood Lakes:
Directions: From Lone Pine, take Whitney Portal Rd. five miles to Horseshoe Meadow Rd. Turn left and drive 20 miles to the Cottonwood Lakes trailhead.
Essentials: Fishing is open July 1 to Oct. 31. Cottonwood Lakes 1, 2, 3, and 4 are catch and release only. There is a five-fish limit at Cottonwood Lakes 5 and 6. Only artificial lures or flies with barbless hooks are permitted. A wilderness permit is required for camping and can be obtained from the ranger station. Fires are prohibited in the basin area.
More info: Mt. Whitney Ranger Station (760) 876-6200; Lone Pine Sporting Goods (760) 876-5365.